Planning to visit Erbil or Iraq for the first time?
In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about your first visit to Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan, from arriving to exploring the city to saying goodbye.
Having lived in Erbil for two years, I can say it’s been one of the most enriching experiences of all my journeys.
Erbil is a fascinating place with unique aspects that set it apart from many other destinations. But being prepared and having some local insights can make a huge difference during your first visit.
Familiarizing yourself with some of the do’s and don’ts and cultural norms will also help you connect with the locals, which is one of the best things about traveling. This is especially true in Erbil, where the locals are incredibly friendly.
Key Takeaways: Erbil for First-Timers
- Erbil is an amazing and fascinating destination.
- It takes some preparation to prevent any unwanted surprises.
- Erbil is a safe place, but you should know a few key things.
Visiting Erbil & Iraq For The First Time
First, when planning a trip to Erbil for the first time, it’s smart to know the best time to visit, your visa and entry requirements, the region, and what to do before departing.
What to do before departing
Getting some local cash (Iraqi Dinars) before departing is a good idea. Even though you have a credit card or your bank says that your card should work at any ATM, there is a big chance it doesn’t!
100.000 Iraqi dinars is around 70 dollars. I would argue that you should get at least a few 100.000 dinars, depending on the duration of your stay of course.
Tip: There are ATM's but it can be a challenge to find the one that works with your bank. So, take enough cash with you just to be sure.
Check the news
Iraqi Kurdistan is a dynamic region, so checking the news before going can’t hurt. Rudaw News is one of the leading news channels covering everything that’s happening in Iraqi Kurdistan. Another major news channel is Kurdistan24.
It’s also quite fun and interesting to get some local insights!
Visa Requirements
Before heading to Erbil, you must ensure your travel documents are in order. Visitors to Iraq, including Erbil, typically need a visa.
A visa on arrival used to be possible, but this has changed. Nowadays, you need to get your visa online before going.
- Get an e-visa here on the official website.
Best Time to Visit
To keep it short, spring, from March to June, is the best time to visit!
Read my full month-by-month guide on the best time to visit Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan. Each month actually has its own charm.
Tip: Weekends are on Friday and Saturday in Iraq, Sunday is a work day.
Arriving at Erbil Airport
When arriving, there are several things you should take into consideration:
What you should not bring into the region
After arriving at the airport, when you’ve got your bags back, you’ll have to put them through another scanner.
Some items are not allowed in the country that they don’t tell you about at the airport you are departing from.
Unexpected items they scan for at the border, and what you should avoid bringing into the country:
- Radio equipment: not allowed
- Walkie talkies: not allowed
- Drones: Strictly forbidden. To my knowledge, if you have a drone, they keep it at the airport for you, and you can have it back when you leave, but I can not 100% confirm this.
- Binoculars: These can be an issue but should be fine.
You might wonder why. Well, even though Erbil is a safe place, there are many political tensions in the region, so they are extra careful.
By the way, any camera equipment is fine; as far as I know, even large lenses are okay.
Then, finally, welcome to Kurdistan!
Things to do when arriving in Erbil
It’s wise to do the following:
- Get cash at the ATM, cash is king in Iraqi Kurdistan (10.000 Iraqi dinar is about 7 dollars).
- Buy a SIM card at the airport to stay connected. Korek works great.
Taking your first taxi at the airport
After that, you’ll likely need a taxi from the airport to your destination. You can also take the bus, but the taxi is much more convenient.
The taxis you’ll see just outside the airport are special airport taxis. You might think these are illegal taxis since there isn’t any taxi sign, but these taxis are the only ones allowed at the airport. It’s safe to take one of the taxis; they’re your only choice.
The price is much higher than that of regular taxis; around 30 dollars for a trip to the city. Regular taxis are only 5 dollars for a similar trip, but they are not allowed at the airport. This is another extra layer of security. So keep this in mind.
Safety Measures in Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan
To keep it short:
- Don’t go into the mountains alone; always go with someone who is familiar with the area.
- Don’t go to the borders near Turkey and Iran.
- Don’t go to so-called disputed areas such as Kirkuk.
- Gas generators can catch on fire because of the dry and hot air.
- Traffic can be hectic, and you can expect to see anything on the road.
The mountains are truly amazing, but you need a guide or a tour to go with. My experience with Kurdistan Outdoor, has always been amazing. Below is the owner and tour guide of the company when we went into the mountains of Choman.
Read my full Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan safety guide.
In all honesty, I’ve never felt unsafe in Erbil except for two times: when Iran fired missiles over the region to Israel, and there were reports of drone attacks not far from the city.
I’ve walked around plenty of times alone and in the evening with my camera gear, and not once was there ever an unpleasant situation. People are incredibly friendly and trustworthy.
Official Travel Advice
Many countries have different travel advice for Iraqi Kurdistan. Many European countries label the region as “orange,” which means only necessary trips are okay.
The U.S. labels the entire region as red, which means you shouldn’t go.
See what your country says about Iraqi Kurdistan on the official embassy website:
I do have to point out that the things they warn about regarding Iraq mostly apply to Baghdad, which is a totally different world from Erbil. Try to see if you can get travel advice specifically for Erbil and the Kurdish region.
Scams?
Truthfully, I haven’t experienced any scams in Erbil in those two years. Maybe it’s because I’m a seasoned traveler, but it’s probably because the Kurdish people aren’t like that.
In fact, I’ve had various occasions when taxi drivers wouldn’t even accept my tip! They didn’t want it even after I had insisted three times.
One time, when I ordered food, the delivery guy didn’t have any cash back for me when I wanted to pay. What did he do? He drove to the nearest supermarket to change the money and returned after a few minutes.
There have been lots of situations that showed the trustworthiness of the locals. I find it truly special.
The only time that I paid too much for a taxi (wasn’t even much) was when I took a taxi on the street, and not via the app Careem. So, always get your taxi with Careem from the app store.
Air Pollution
The air can be pretty polluted at times, especially in the evening. This is mainly due to the traffic and power generators. During the day it’s fine and outside the city, the air is nice and clean.
Read more about the air quality in my complete Erbil safety guide.
Kurdish Customs
Small talk
It’s very common, in fact I don’t think it ever doesn’t happen!, to make some small talk before getting into the question you want to ask. Ask, Hello, how are you? how’d business going? how’s your family doing? Then, ask your question.
I think it’s such a nice thing to do that I started doing it myself in other places as well.
I’m pretty confident there was some friendly small talk before making a purchase in the image below.
Hospitality Culture
If you’re visiting someone it’s always a good idea to bring something. It can be fruit, cookies, chocolate, anything! They will surely appreciate it a lot.
Read more about the beautiful Kurdish customs and traditions.
Getting Around in Erbil
There are some things you should know regarding transportation in Erbil. It’s not a city where you can just hop on and off a subway train. It’s a very car-oriented city. It’s even a bit ‘American’ in that you can just park your car in front of the restaurant.
Transportation Options Within the City
To keep it short, your transportation options are:
- Renting a car (Avis is great, same building as Divan Hotel)
- Taking a taxi (Only use taxis from the app Careem, where you can pay in cash, so no need to connect any credit cards)
- Having a friend to pick you up…
- There are buses, but even after two years living in Erbil, I don’t know what a bus stop looks like because I don’t think I’ve ever seen one.
For more personal exploration, hiring a local guide is a great choice. They provide transportation if you’re going on a trip.
Hectic Traffic
Traffic can be hectic, especially in the evening, when the city truly comes to life. Expect the unexpected! Just drive safe, keep your eye on the road, and don’t get stressed or upset when someone cuts you off. This is all very common.
Read more about driving a car in Iraqi Kurdistan.
Tip: Friday morning to afternoon is the most quite time of the week, this is like Sunday morning in the West.
Kids and vendors at traffic lights
At some crossroads or traffic lights during peak hours, you might see people selling items or trying to wash your window in exchange for money. You will also see kids doing this to make a living. This is a very harsh sight and a reminder of the challenging environment for some people.
I have to point out that I never had trouble with kids or adults approaching me at the traffic lights. Many times I bought flowers or gave some cash when they cleaned the window. It can be a bit daunting at times because some kids might come with a group of 5, so it can be a little overwhelming, but there’s no need to stress.
Valet Parking
When you’re driving a car yourself, valet parking is very common. If you’re not used to that, then it might be a bit strange just to give you car keys but this is perfectly fine!
Many restaurants and hotels have valet parking.
Believe it or not, the Burger King Restaurant in the city has valet parking. You drive your car up the parking lot and just hand over your keys, crazy!
Renting a Car: Is It Worth It?
Erbil is a city that is very much focussed on cars. So, you either need a taxi or a friend or drive a car yourself.
Driving in Erbil is totally doable, but you can expect anything on the road:
- Flocks of sheep
- People walking on the highway
- Slow driving cars
- Drivers are on their phone and so on…
But, to have the freedom of going anywhere makes things much easier. My advice would be:
- Rent a car for a day or two, drive to Akre, and explore Erbil.
- Go on a trip with Kurdistan Outdoor
- Take a taxi several times to the citadel and some other places.
Read my complete guide on renting a car in Erbil.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to post them below in the comments, and I will respond as soon as possible!
You’ll see many American muscle cars in Erbil! For a day, I rented a Mustang Challenger. How epic is this shot! 😉
Where To Stay
Finding a reliable place to stay in Erbil is vital for a good experience. Accommodation options in Erbil range from budget-friendly to more luxurious stays.
Modern hotels I’ve stayed at are:
- Divan: a bit expensive but good location. Check price.
- Rotana: Although the location isn’t ideal, the outdoor pool is available, albeit not frequently used for swimming or socializing. Check price.
- Erbil International: great outdoor pool for swimming that not many hotels have. Check price.
- Radisson: Great location, restaurants are close by, and a nice mall, but there is no pool. Check price.
Find more hotels below:
Restaurant tips
Local food such as shawarma, dolma, and biryani is quite affordable.
Things you should know when going to a restaurant:
- You’ll get lots of free side dishes at the start, nice!
- Tipping is quite common and polite, but there isn’t a rule on a certain percentage.
- The food is safe, and I haven’t been sick once in those two years.
Great places to eat are:
- Defermo
- Kebab Yasin
- Catholic University in Erbil (CUE)
Find out more places to visit and things to do in Erbil.
Various Practical Tips
Visiting Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan can be an epic, once-in-a-lifetime experience if you’re well-prepared.
Language and Communication
In Erbil, Kurdish and Arabic are spoken. Kurdish sounds very different and much softer than Arabic.
Phrases like “thank you” (spas in Kurdish) and “hello” (salaam in Arabic) are really appreciated.
Local Customs and Etiquette
- Respect for local customs in Erbil is important. When visiting religious sites, shoulders and knees should be covered. But in other places, there aren’t any strict rules.
- It’s polite to remove your shoes when entering homes or specific places like mosques.
What attire is appropriate for tourists in Erbil?
Dressing modestly is important, but it’s not as strict as you might think! You’ll notice most men wear long pants, even in the summer instead of shorts, so I did the same. Choose light fabrics to stay comfortable in the warm climate.
A headscarf is not required at all, and you’ll notice that many women don’t wear one, except for some older ladies.
Because of the dry climate, wearing long sleeves or pants is actually totally fine even in 40 degrees/104 Fahrenheit!
Photography Do’s and Don’ts in Erbil
Kurdish folks are very open and proud of Kurdistan, which is why it is such an amazing place to shoot photos. When you see them with a camera, they might strike a pose, randomly ask if you want to take a picture of them, or start a conversation.
What you should not take photos of:
- Police or military: Don’t even try!
- Government buildings: You’ll often see signs that warn not to take photos.
- Things at or around the airport, even with your phone.
- Individual females, this is not appreciated.
Other than that, I’ve been walking around with my camera a lot, and it was always lots of fun, especially around the Citadel.
But even outside of Erbil, in a town named Akre for instance, people are so kind and easy to connect to. This guy with his horse went to the edge of the hill for me so I could take this awesome shot.
What to pack for Erbil
Here’s a list of things I wore daily, including some handy items to take with you to Erbil.
Clothing
- Lightweight long sleeve blouses
- Breathable pants (linen is perfect)
- Sandals or Flip Flops (perfectly fine in a mall for instance)
- Hat and sunglasses
- For females: Outside religious buildings, anything is fine if it’s not too revealing.
Electronics
- Smartphone with SIM card
- Portable charger
- Travel adapter (Type C/G sockets)
- Extra phone charging cable in the car
- Power bank (don’t leave it in your car, it can overheat)
Documents
- Passport
- Visa documents
- Travel insurance (!)
- Driver’s license (if renting a car)
- Emergency contact list
- Local embassy/consulate details
Health & Safety
- Reusable water bottle
- In the car: Always have water, First aid kit (band-aids, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, motion sickness tablets, etc.)
Outdoor Gear
- Hiking shoes (if you’re going into the mountains)
- Camera bag
Tip: Copy this list to your Notes app and turn it into a checklist.
As you can see in the image below, most people wear light, neat, and stylish clothes. For example, you won’t see jeans with fashionable rips or holes.
Some wear more traditional clothing, others wear more casual outfits.
Wrapping Up Your Erbil Journey
You did it! You traveled into the unknown, defying the typical news portrayals, and embraced the adventure of Iraqi Kurdistan.
How incredible is it that you’ve been to Iraq?!
One of the things I love most about traveling is how certain misconceptions are shattered once you actually experience a place. I expected Erbil to be full of sand and dust, but I was completely wrong, and that’s what makes it so amazing!
I truly hope your experience was or will be just as eye-opening as it was for me and that your view of Iraq and Kurdistan has also been transformed.
Taxi to the airport
Final tip: When you go back to the airport, you can take a regular taxi or one of the special airport taxis. When you take a regular taxi they bring you to a bus terminal close to the airport. From there you have to take a bus for a short ride to the airport.
When taking the special airport taxi, they can bring you right to the airport without having to transfer to a bus. My advice is to take that one (the bus transfer can take quite a while as you have to put all your luggage through another scanner)
Here is the phone number for the airport taxi. Make a reservation, and they will pick you up.
Safe travels on your way back home!
Tip: If you have any questions, please comment below, and I will respond as soon as possible!
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the top safety considerations for travelers visiting Erbil?
Erbil is generally considered safe for tourists. You should stay informed about local news. Stick to well-known areas and follow local advice.
Make sure your travel insurance covers your trip to Erbil, and always keep emergency contact numbers handy.
What attire is appropriate for tourists in Erbil to respect local customs?
Dressing modestly is polite, but it’s not as strict as you might think. Most men wear long pants instead of shorts, even in the summer, so I did the same.
Choose light fabrics to stay comfortable in the warm climate.
A headscarf is not required at all and you’ll notice that many women don’t wear one except for older ladies.
Can I drink tap water in Erbil?
It’s fine for cooking and showering, but I always use bottled water for drinking.
