Most people's idea of Iraq comes from news footage. Mine comes from two years of school runs, local restaurants, expat dinners, and weekend road trips. The north is a different world from what you imagine.
The hospitality you encounter in Iraqi Kurdistan is unlike anything I've experienced anywhere else in 40+ countries. Chris, Moving Jack
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In Erbil, my top pick is Divan Erbil Hotel. The best full-service hotel in the city, central location and great service, reliable wifi, and a surprisingly good breakfast. From $150/night.
Travel tools
Flights to Erbil Skyscanner Search EBL — many routes via Istanbul or Doha
eSIM for Iraq Airalo Get one — local SIM setup can be slow
Tours in Kurdistan GetYourGuide Citadel, Lalish, mountain day trips
Hotels in Erbil Booking.com Best selection in the region
Travel Insurance SafetyWing Essential for this region
Apps for Iraq
Snapp (ride app)
Main ride-hailing app
Google Maps
Works well here
WhatsApp
How everyone communicates
Nobody tells you
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Visa on arrival available for most nationalities
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USD is widely accepted alongside Iraqi Dinar
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Very safe — different situation from rest of Iraq
Check visa requirements →