Living as an expat in Erbil, in Iraqi Kurdistan, is a thrilling adventure.
The city is a unique place with low crime, it’s culturally rich, and the city is a mix of modern and ancient scenes.
For instance, you could see someone with a flock of sheep next to the road while an expensive American muscle car or even a Rolls Royce is driving by.
There are plenty of things to do in Erbil. The adventurous expats will surely enjoy this city.
Let’s dive into what it is like to live in Iraqi Kurdistan’s capital, Erbil.
Honestly, when we moved to Erbil, I had never heard of it (shame on me). So, I looked up videos, vlogs, and blogs to get more information about what it would be like to live there.
The more we saw, the more enthusiastic we became to live in Erbil, in Kurdistan!
Living in Erbil
Now that I’ve lived here for two years, I can tell you what it’s like to live in the wonderful city Erbil as an expat.
Pros & Cons
Pros
- Unique location with beautiful landscapes
- Restaurants with delicious local and Middle Eastern food
- All sorts of international food is available
- Very low crime rate
- People are helpful and super friendly
- The cost of living in Erbil is fairly cheap compared to many other countries
Cons
- Further outside the city, the area is not safe near Turkey and Iran
- Drone attacks close to the city can occur
- Bad air quality in certain parts of the day
- A limited number of places to visit due to safety issues
- As a foreigner, you might stand out and draw some attention, although it was never uncomfortable in my experience
Erbil in Short
Erbil is the capital of the autonomous region Kurdistan, which is part of Northern Iraq. The population of Erbil is about 1.5 million, and the population of the entire area of Kurdistan is 6.1 million. People have been living here as far back as the seventh century B.C.!
Since then, Erbil has been inhabited by its current population, making it one of the world’s oldest inhabited towns.
Read more about the old city center here.
Cooking on gas in Erbil
Now, this is one of the reasons I love to live abroad and experience new things. When we moved into our new house, we found out that there were no gas pipes! But there was a gas stove in the kitchen… How do we cook?
This will amaze you: precisely that moment, we heard a classical Disney-style kind of song outside. We both were thinking, what the hell is that? We went out and saw this old little truck driving around with gas tanks.
We quickly realized that we would have to get one of those tanks and attach it to the stove! I ran to the truck and asked him if we could get one of those gas tanks. He attached it to the back of our house with a hose through the wall to our stove. It worked!
There is a system in Erbil where you can replace your empty gas tank and get a new one. The truck is like an ice-cream truck driving around, with music coming from a speaker. Except this ice cream truck doesn’t sell ice cream but gas tanks.
It is a straightforward and efficient way to provide everyone with one gas without having to build a gas pipe infrastructure.
Expats in Erbil
In my experience, there aren’t many expats in Erbil. Most of them live around Dream City, where most of the international facilities are, such as international supermarkets and restaurants. Expats can be found at several bars, such as “The Two Princesses,” an Irish Pub (in Iraq!).
Most of the international folks in Erbil either work for a NGO (non-governmental-organization) or a consulate of their country.
But there are also many Kurdish people with Dutch roots, around 7000.
Traffic in Erbil
Living in Kurdistan means you’ll have to be part of the traffic on the road.
The traffic is one of the most fascinating things I’ve experienced in Erbil.
The roads are the only means of transport, so everybody uses them to get from one place to another. There are no bicycle lanes, scooter lanes, or sidewalks.
So, people cycle on the road, drive scooters, and transport anything. Lanes barely even exist, which leads to chaotic and fascinating situations.
The city map is very efficiently laid out. In the center of the town is the old Citadel, and around it are two ring roads.
The ring road around those is called the 60-meter road, where the speed limit is 60 km/hour. Around that is the 80-meter road with an 80 km/hour speed limit, followed by a 120-meter road and even a 150-meter road, but the speed limit is still 120 km/hour, of course.
Read what it is like to drive a car in Iraq.
Safety in Erbil
Besides some chaotic situations on the road, it is very safe on the streets. I’ve never seen any suspicious people hanging around that would give you an unsafe feeling.
There aren’t any gangs, and there’s very little crime. Locals told me that if something happens, people will help you instantly. It’s part of the Kurdish and Iraqi culture to help others.
Living in Kurdistan, and especially Erbil, is very safe. However, it is much less safe closer to the borders with Iran and Turkey.
Please always check your country’s travel advice before embarking on your trip to Erbil or Iraq.
Read the full story: Is Kurdistan safe to travel
Outside Erbil Into the Unknown
Living in Erbil doesn’t mean you have to stay in the city, of course! There are countless fascinating areas outside the city, such as Rawanduz, a town built on a cliff, Korek Mountain with snow at its peaks, the Shanidar Cave, and the ancient town of Akre.
I also visited the Lalish Temple, the most holy place of the Yazidi’s, what an incredible and eye-opening place that is!
I highly recommend venturing out of the city if you can during the week because weekends can be very crowded.
Outside the city, traffic is mostly pretty relaxed, although you should always be prepared for anything that might cross the road unexpectedly/
Refugee Camps in Erbil
There are several refugee camps in Erbil. Most of the refugees are children coming from Baghdad or other cities in Iraq. They are national refugees who escaped terrifying situations at home or from conflicts in the city.
Sometimes you will see children outside the refugee camps, and it is one of the saddest things I’ve ever seen.
What makes it even more tragic is that there is enough money in the country, luxury, expensive cars, and hotels, but these children still live in this bad environment. It’s a reminder of the harsh society in the country.
Power generators and electricity in Erbil
One of the things that surprised me the most in Erbil is the use of power generators. There is an electricity network in the city, but it provides electricity only for a certain amount of time.
When there isn’t any electricity, huge power generators that run on gas or diesel need to be switched on. Entire hotels and house blocks are getting their electricity from these generators.
This causes a lot of air pollution. Sometimes you will see a massive generator outside a store, so they can run the air-conditioning, while the store hasn’t any isolation so the cold air goes out very quickly. It’s not a very environmentally friendly situation…
Hopefully, the use of solar panels will improve in Erbil because there is plenty of sunlight.
Is there nightlife in Erbil?
There is! There are actually more clubs than I expected, plus there are plenty of bars and liquor stores.
The German Bottle Shop is a famous store with all kinds of drinks, wine and beer from all over the world. There are several locations in Kurdistan.
As a DJ I immediately tried to find all the clubs in Erbil. Later on I noticed that clubs are primarily focused on Arabic music. On the other hand, bars are a bit more focused on western music.
Some great bars in Erbil are Mars and The Spot. Mars is on the top floor of a hotel and has a nice view of the city. In the distance, you can see lights from houses in the mountains.
The roof can be slid open to see a night sky with stars while enjoying a beer or a cocktail.
The Spot is right next to Gulan Mall. It’s a nice place to have some lunch in the afternoon, or a few drinks in the evening with D.J.’s and live music.
Some clubs in Erbil are Inferno and Nuke.
How is the air quality in Erbil?
The air quality really depends on the day and the time of day.
The air quality is worse in the morning and the evening because traffic is busier so there is a lot more air pollution when everyone goes to work. In the afternoon, the air is pretty good, some days it’s excellent and there is barely any smog.
Living in Erbil: What’s the cost of living in Erbil?
- Decent apartment, minimum of 800 dollars, to 1600 dollars in Diamon City
- Gas for cooking, 10 dollars per month.
- Electricity is about 50 dollars per month, depending on your area.
- Gas for the car, 60 cents per liter.
- Local food ranges from 5 to 15 dollars per meal. International food is often more expensive.
In Erbil, expats can pay with American dollars or Iraqi Dinars, which is convenient. Both currencies can be used at local stores, taxis, and international shops.
Prices for an apartment or a house in Erbil can range from 800 euros to even 4000 euros per month. It depends on what you are looking for, and the location. We chose to live just outside the city center where the price is lower, but the houses are bigger.
Popular locations where most expats live are Empire, Dream City, English Village, and Italian Village. The area has restaurants, bars, and hotels. It is expanding quickly; new buildings are being built daily.
Don’t ask me why they are called English and Italian village. I have no idea! It’s not like the style is Italian or English, I guess they just liked the international name.
One thing that might be different than your home country is that when you rent a place, all the costs for repairs and maintenance are for yourself during the time that you rent it. So, if one of the ACs breaks down, you will have to pay for the repair costs yourself. This is something to keep in mind when you rent a place.
Final thoughts on living in Erbil
So what’s it like to live in Erbil as a traveler and expat? Many friends and family were a bit shocked when we told them that we would live in Erbil for the next two years, “but that’s in Iraq! Isn’t it dangerous there?” they said.
Well, we were also a bit hesitant about living in Erbil. But, after some research, my wife and I became more and more enthusiastic. In many cases, countries and cities can be very different than what you see on the news. Many friends thought we were crazy to go live in China, for instance, but I honestly had the time of my life there.
Living in Erbil, in Kurdistan, Iraq, is also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The city surprised me in so many positive ways. The friendly people, culture, food, nature, many small fascinating things such as certain ways of living, and many adventures in this beautiful region.
Some friendly Kurds even invited me to their wedding!
Thinking about visiting Erbil?
Find the best places to stay in my complete Where To Stay in Erbil Guide.
My recommended Hotels in Erbil 🛏️
Hotel Syros
Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan
$ – Budget Friendly
Great location near Citadel- Walkable area on foot
- At the heart of traditional Kurdish daily life
Great location near Citadel
Erbil International Hotel
Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan
$$ – Comfortable Mid-Range
- 20 minute walk from Citadel
- Amazing outdoor pool you will not find elsewhere in Erbil
Divan Erbil
Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan
$$$ – Luxury
- 5-star international hotel
- Indoor pool and fitness center
- On-site restaurants & spa
Radisson Erbil
Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan
$$$ – Luxury
- Close to local and international restaurants
- Next to Gulan Mall
- The Grill is a restaurants at ground floor with a mix of locals and expats
Here is an overview of available hotels in Erbil:
are my favorites.
F.A.Q.
Is Erbil a safe city to live in?
Yes, Erbil is generally considered to be a safe city to live in. The local authorities in Erbil take security seriously and crime rates are low. However, like any other city, it’s always important to take common sense precautions, and being aware of your surroundings.
Always check your embassy’s travel advice.
Read my full safety guide on Erbil here.
What is the weather like in Erbil?
In the summer, temperatures can reach over 45°C, while in the winter, temperatures can drop to around 0°C. Spring and autumn are generally mild and pleasant.
Are there international schools in Erbil?
Yes, Erbil has a few international schools that offer various educational curricula, including British, French, American, and IB (International Baccalaureate) programs.
What is the healthcare system like in Erbil?
Erbil has a growing healthcare system with both public and private facilities.
Public hospitals may have limited resources and longer wait times, while private hospitals offer higher quality services but can be more expensive.
It is advisable to have health insurance coverage to help manage medical expenses, especially for expatriates. For the more serious injuries it is advices to fly to Dubai.
The Maryamana hospital is the best hospital in Erbil in my experience.
