Why we moved to
Kurdistan
My wife's job took us to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan. Friends thought we were insane. Two years later, it's the place we talk about most. The hospitality, the mountains, the food, the surprising normality of daily life. Nothing like what you imagine.
Our son was 5 months old. A Kurdish lady at a local market asked to hold him — he usually cried with strangers, but not with her. She was dressed in traditional clothes, came from a big family, and knew exactly how to hold a baby. He just melted into her arms. That moment told me everything about Kurdish culture that no guidebook could.
A member of Kurdistan Outdoor — a local hiking group — told us about Rawanduz. No signpost, no tourists, just one of the most dramatic gorges I've ever seen. We were the only Western family there.
Things To Do.
Life Abroad.
Practical.
More Guides.
In Erbil, my top pick is Divan Erbil Hotel. The best full-service hotel in the city — central location near the Citadel, reliable wifi, and a surprisingly good breakfast. It's the option I recommend to friends visiting. From $90/night.
Kurdistan Travel FAQ
Iraqi Kurdistan is far safer than the name suggests. The Kurdistan Region is politically autonomous from the rest of Iraq, has its own security forces (Peshmerga), and has had no major tourist incidents in years. I lived there with my family for two years.
Most Western nationalities can get a visa on arrival at Erbil International Airport or Sulaymaniyah Airport. It's separate from the rest of Iraq's visa process. Usually around $75 USD for 30 days.
Yes — Erbil is a great base for exploring both Kurdistan and nearby areas. Note that the Kurdistan visa technically covers the Kurdistan Region only. Traveling south to Baghdad or other parts of Iraq requires a separate visa and very different safety considerations.
Kurdish culture is incredibly hospitable. Expect to be invited for tea constantly. Dress modestly outside of Erbil city center. During Ramadan, eating in public is frowned upon. People are warm, curious about foreigners, and proud of their region.
More than you'd expect. The Erbil Citadel (one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites on Earth), Lalish Temple (sacred to the Yazidi people), mountain villages like Amadiya, ski resorts, and some genuinely excellent local food. It's a slow-travel destination, not a highlights reel.