The Ultimate Travel Guide Iraqi Kurdistan
The insider's guide from someone who actually lived there
Not another recycled tourist guide. This is everything I learned from 2 years of raising a family, navigating daily life, and exploring every corner of Kurdistan — from the ancient Citadel of Erbil to hidden mountain trails most tourists never see.
Instant PDF download
Everything you need,
nothing you don't
No fluff, no filler. Every section is built from real, lived experience.
Is Kurdistan Safe?
Honest safety assessment from someone who raised a newborn there. What to expect at checkpoints, which areas to avoid, and why it's safer than you think.
Planning & Visas
E-visa process, best time to visit, what to pack, money tips (USD works!), SIM cards, and the seasonal breakdown month by month.
Getting Around
Renting cars, Careem rides, navigating checkpoints, and why a private driver might be your best investment for mountain trips.
Erbil Deep Dive
Neighborhoods, hotels, the Citadel, Qaysari Bazaar, Dream City, Ankawa nightlife — and where the locals actually go.
Food & Restaurants
From street kebabs to hidden gems. Detailed restaurant recommendations with my honest take on each spot, plus Kurdish BBQ culture.
Culture & Customs
Kurdish etiquette, mosque visits, Newroz celebrations, essential phrases in Sorani, and how to navigate local customs respectfully.
Mountain Adventures
Safeen Mountain, Korek, Halgurd peak, Rawanduz Canyon, Bekhal Waterfall — with honest difficulty ratings and safety tips.
Sample Itineraries
Ready-to-follow 3-day, 5-day, and 7-day itineraries covering Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok, and Akre with daily breakdowns.
100+ Google Maps Pins
Every restaurant, hotel, viewpoint, and hidden spot — pinned and categorized in a shareable Google Maps list. Just open and go.
Living vs. visiting — there's no comparison
2 Years on the Ground
Not a 5-day press trip. I navigated bureaucracy, got a local phone plan, found the best barber, and discovered restaurants that aren't on any blog.
Family-Tested
Moved there with my wife and had our son in Kurdistan. Every recommendation is vetted for real life — not just adventure travelers.
Brutally Honest
I'll tell you which popular spots are overhyped, where the hidden landmine risks are on hiking trails, and what the tourist blogs won't mention.
Written by Chris Oberman
- Lived in 6 countries across 3 continents with family
- Featured in BBC, CNN, NBC, Business Insider & 30+ outlets
- 2 full years living in Erbil, Kurdistan (2022–2024)
- Raised a newborn in Kurdistan — family perspective included
- Runs Moving Jack — documenting life as a serial expat
This guide saved us weeks of planning. The Google Maps pins alone are worth it.
Start planning your trip today
The Ultimate Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide
Instant PDF download · Lifetime updates included
- 70+ page comprehensive guide
- 40+ Google Maps pins (restaurants, hotels, sights)
- 3 ready-to-use itineraries (3, 5, and 7-day)
- Complete packing checklists
- Essential Kurdish phrases with pronunciation
- Honest safety assessment & tips
- Restaurant guide with personal reviews
- Free lifetime updates as things change